I know this is probably a speed sensor because I have had a simular problem
like this with this same van and also in my 96 Caravan. I just dont know
which sensor to replace, there are 2 . The last time the speeometer didnt
stop working. I was also wondering since the speedometer isnt working could
it be something other than the sensor that I should be looking for since
there is no data going from the speedometer to the sensor on the tranny.

I have a 98 dodge neon (no modifications) and my shifter has an awful
lot of play.  While in gear (clutch engaged) my shifter is free to
move about an inch in every direction (two inches from to to bottom,
left to right, etc.).  This doesn’t seem right.  Does anyone else’s do
this?  What would I need to replace to fix it?

Thanks!

i have a 1995 intrepid and the heater stays on! there is no lights on the
controls and it just wont turn off!! anybody have this problem?

Got my mother in laws 91 Eagle Summit with a blown engine. If any one
needs parts for one in the Cleveland area let me know.

I’ve got an ’86 Aries-K with 78,000 miles on it.  It’s a 2.2L Inline 4, Fuel
Injected, with 3-speed automatic.

It’ll stall after about 7 to 10 miles of driving.  It will do this when
coming to a stop or when going down the road at 55+ mph with my foot on the
gas in 3rd.  After it stalls, and then getting it restarted (NOT easy to
do), the only way to keep it from stalling again, is to keep a foot on the
gas and a foot on the brake, or when going down the highway (naturally not
at 55mph, anymore) to put it in 2nd to keep the revs up, or put it in
Neutral to keep the revs up.

After it stalls, the engine seems hot, but the temperature gauge says it’s
in the normal band (not far above the cold limit of the normal band).  Once
after stalling, but after getting where I had to go, it refused to start
after sitting for 7 hours.  That was new.  Usually, it starts easily when
cold.  This time, it didn’t start until after ~5 minutes of trying.

At first I’d thought I got some bad gas, maybe some water in the gas.  So, I
tried STP Water Remover.  No effect.  Then, I tried Fuel Injector Cleaner.
No effect.  Then I tried leaving the fuel cap a bit loose (incase there was
a partial vacuum being pulled in the tank, and preventing the fuel from
getting to the engine.  No effect.

Now, I’m wondering:

Intermittently failing fuel pump?
Partially Clogged Fuel Filter?
Clogged Catalytic Converter?
Clogged Charcoal Canister? (Maybe the fuel tank was replaced with the wrong
one, and the new one isn’t allowing proper venting?)
Water Pump Going Bad? (over heating?)
Engine Fan (electric) not working?
Thermostat bad?

Anybody else have a similar problem with a 2.2L Inline 4, Fuel Injected,
with 3-speed automatic Aries-K?

Oil Level is fine.
Coolant Level is fine.

On 05/08/2000, a piece of road debris (steel) kicked up and punctured the
gas tank (1/4" hole) and I had the gas tank replaced.  Ever since then, I’ve
been unable to fill the tank at anything over 1/10th gallon/second.  The
first time it stalled on me was in June of 2001, and it only happened a
couple of times then.  Now, that warm weather has arrived again, it started
stalling more and more.  Maybe it is the fan.  Normally, when I’d be in the
drive through at Wendy’s or McDonald’s, it’d heat up and the fan would come
on, and it’d cool back down.  Now, I don’t remember the fan coming on in
recent weeks, but then again the temperature gauge hasn’t gone up to the
point where the fan would be needed either.  Thermostat?

Where would be the best place to take it to DIAGNOSE the problem, instead of
a place that just replaces parts ’till they hit upon the right one by blind
luck?  5-Star Dodge Dealer?

Mac Breck
————————
http://www.scifi.com/crusade/  http://www.b5lr.com/

"Nothing much good on TV tonight anyway." (Captain Gideon, Babylon 5
Crusade – The Memory of War)

Tried to do an internet appointment with the local Dodge 5-Star Dealer.  The
service people weren’t even aware of the page’s existence.

See

http://makeashorterlink.com/?G14256801

Mac Breck
————————
http://www.scifi.com/crusade/  http://www.b5lr.com/

"Nothing much good on TV tonight anyway." (Captain Gideon, Babylon 5
Crusade – The Memory of War)

A quick question or three-

What’s the volume of power steering fluid in the ’93 Intrepid?

Is your typical auto store ps fluid an acceptable substitute for the
Chrysler dealer/factory fluid?  I am assuming that the fluid will be
twice as much at the dealer.

My plastic Chrysler ps fluid reservoir has just disentegrated @ 9
years old.  The top literally fell in, the bracket has broken off
and one of the hose fittings cracked off.  I hope I haven’t ruined
the pump due to this materials defect.  Has this been a known
problem with Chrysler underhood plastics components?  Some of my
wire looms are falling apart & cracking into dust as well.

The car only has about 70k miles.

Thanks,

Dan
De-nix my address to reply by email.

My 97 T&C has an overhead console with the usual indicators, compass,
temp, miles, etc.  Everything works fine except the outside temperature read
out.

It will work fine for days and then for no apparent reason will jump all
over the scale at highway speeds.  If it is 70 F outside, it may read 70 for
a while then
14, 55, etc.  Has anyone had any experience with such a problem.

I just bought a 2002 Caravan with the 2.4L 4 cyl and the 3 speed auto.
It surprises me that DaimlerChrysler still installs a 3 speed auto in
such a vehicle. It’s a bit underpowered and a properly matched 4 speed
auto would help things.

I guess it’s just a case of cost cutting. In a sense that worked
because the low cost caused me to buy the vehicle.

However, I was surprised to see in the owner’s manual that this 3
speed auto requires band adjustments every 30,000 miles in average
service, every 15,000 miles in severe service.

Routine band adjustments strike me as a bit archaic in this day and
age. Anyone out there have experience with this?
Does this tranny begin to slip and self destruct if the adjustments
are not performed on time?

BTW, while no speed demon, the 2.4 cyl isn’t that bad. Per road tests
and my own experience, the 0-60 time is around 11.5 seconds – not
terrible.  Due to the lack of low end torque, the 4 cyl is a bit
sluggest off the line. Once revved up and above about 25 MPH, things
speed up nicely. Ya jus gotta stomp on it….

tnx,
Doug

Having started to use my new, well new to me, 1990 Dakota for some work
around the house, stump pulling and halling, etc I’ve really noticed how
pathetic the stock bumpers are.  Can anyone recomend a brand of after market
bumper to replace both front and rear?  What I’d like is something capable
of taking the stress of a chain when I need to pull out a stump or small
boulder.  Right now I’ve been hooking up to the frame at the point where the
rear crossmember attaches but its a real pain and I have to watch the angle
of the chain so I don’t damage the rear of the bed.  I’ll probably put on a
winch in the near future on the front so keep that in mind. So far the truck
is working out great just have a few small problems to iron out, like
putting the front drive shaft back in so I can see if the 4 wheel drive
works, not bad for 800 bucks and parts.

Bill