trouble codes are 30 26

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Hello all, I’m new to the board and I’m having a problem with my ’96 Stratus that I hope you can help me with, Every time I try to start the car I immediately blow the pcm/asd fuse, (fuse #5), the engine will turn over but it will not start. I pulled he wires off the starter and the fuse will not blow. Any help/tips/pointers would be greatly appreciated!!!

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Hello Group,
I am putting an engine in my Intrepid 3.3
I am wondering how to line the engine up to the transmission.I am not sure
of the sequence of putting it back together. I have the engine installed and
sitting loosely on the motor mounts and the bolts started to connect the
transmission to the engine. I can get within about 1/4 inch and it gets
tough. I kind of thought that if everything is lined up with the bolts
started that it should slide together easily.
I left it like it is for now because I dont want to torque it too much,
doesnt feel right.
I tried to turn it over by hand to line up the bolts for the flex plate but
it wont turn. I think something must be jamming up.
Question is…Should I get it close and then bolt the flex plate to the
torque converter or is it supposed to be bolted on after the transmission is
bolted to the engine? Books dont tell me much. Is there a trick to this that
I am missing…
Thanks,,,
Steve

Hello Group,
I am putting an engine in my Intrepid 3.3
I am wondering how to line the engine up to the transmission.I am not sure
of the sequence of putting it back together. I have the engine installed and
sitting loosely on the motor mounts and the bolts started to connect the
transmission to the engine. I can get within about 1/4 inch and it gets
tough. I kind of thought that if everything is lined up with the bolts
started that it should slide together easily.
I left it like it is for now because I dont want to torque it too much,
doesnt feel right.
I tried to turn it over by hand to line up the bolts for the flex plate but
it wont turn. I think something must be jamming up.
Question is…Should I get it close and then bolt the flex plate to the
torque converter or is it supposed to be bolted on after the transmission is
bolted to the engine? Books dont tell me much. Is there a trick to this that
I am missing…
Thanks,,,
Steve

I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid that has had quite a few problems. It has
the 2.7l engine. We finally got it running again and now it makes a
sqeeling noise we figured out it lost oil to the top since it had been
open. We reoiled and it ran fine for about 15 mins. Then sqeeling
started again but soon stopped. And it’s also knocking. Everyone seems
to be leaning to replacing the 2.7 here but I have already put more
money in it than what it’s worth. My main question is what is making
it lose lubrication.

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First off thanks to everyone who replied to my last post. This is the same
engine as in my previous post (400 big block chrysler, not sure what
year). It has a non-stock cam (I don’t know the specs, it was installed by
a previous owner and the guy I bought it from didn’t know either), a
non-stock electronic ignition (once again previous owner)with no vaccuum
advance, and a non stock Holley 650 four barrel carb. The problem is that
it seems like there is more vibration than there should be at idle in gear
or in park, but it doesn’t seem to be misfiring and the cylinder
compression is normal. When I hit the throttle hard enough for the
secondaries to open, it backfires and belches fire out of the carb, then
proceeds to have no guts whatsoever. I ran some lucas fuel system cleaner
through it and changed the oil and spark plugs, bought a Holley Trickit
for the carb and rebuilt it because the secondary float needle was
sticking and the secondaries are now operating normally and are getting
fuel. I checked the compression in all cylinders and it was normal. The
distributor cap and rotor are in good shape and I just set the air gap. I
checked the timing and it was set at more than 30 degrees (!) before top
dead center, so I advanced it to 7 1/2 degrees before top dead center, and
it behaved the same only ran worse, like that was too much advance. It has
fresh fuel in it also. Starting to run out of ideas. If anyone could steer
me in the right direction, I would be grateful!

Is there any way to know if the MDS system on the Hemi is actually
working?   We have a 2005 Magnum RT and there have been trips where I
get 24mpg,  and others where I can’t get better than 20mpg.   Cruise
control is used frequently on these highway trips.

Thanks
Vic
2005 Magnum RT

My 1995 Dodge Intrepid blows the 20 amp fuse that coresponde the the Engine
controlr in the power distribution box when cranking the engine over, only
when starter is engauged. I had the battery neg. cable off put in new fuse
in put cable back turnned ign. switch on off on off on got the code 12
telling me that the battrey had been unhooked and code 55 for end of scan.
So no codes show any thing bad but if you crank the engine the fuse blows.
Could this be a bad starter or alt? If anyone has anyyone other idea
please lets hear it.

    Thanks

Hi Group,

   My 99 Caravan has  88,000 miles on it. The work done to it has been
mostly routine maintenance, and the usual Serpentine belt / tensioner and of
course all Dodges I have bought seem to require new rear wheel cylinders (at
about 35,000 miles) because of fluid seepage. All in all, this Caravan has
been a good vehicle for 6 years now.

   The reason for my posting is that I am starting to get a delayed start
when turning the ignition key to the start position. Often all I hear is a
click. If I try again, it usually starts. Sometimes it takes 3 tries. So far
it has not stranded me. I realize this could be loose / dirty connections,
or even my battery. Maybe this is related to the transmission (PARK)
interlock. I have not ruled out those possibilities yet. I do wonder what
the likelihood of the problem being the starter or starter solenoid? Are
these combined or separate items? Any thoughts from you folks that know
Dodges better than I?

Regards,
Jim