Are the 3-speed and 4-speed transmissions from a 1994 Caravan with the
3.0 engine in any way interchangeable? I ask because the 3-speed in my
brothers Caravan is shot and someone offered me a working 4-speed also
from 94′ Caravan with a 3.0 engine. I was thinking since it is the
same van and same engine somehow both transmissions must bolt on the
same way. Or is there a lot more involved in this than I am thinking
of? Thanks in advance.

I’ve got the struts, boot kits, and mounting plates, in case I need them, and a
spring compressor from Harbor Freight. I’ve never done struts before. It seems
like it should be pretty straight forward.

Anyone have any tricks I should know?

Are the springs themselves likely to bad? It bottoms out pretty easily, but
seems to sit level.

I bought the Monroe Sensa-Trac struts, rather than the Monroe-Matics. Good
choice? I prefer a firmer ride with less chance of bottoming out.

I do know to mark the springs left/right, and mark position of the parts
relative to each other.

I posted a while back about my caravan that had a real problem with dips and
holes in the road, even though the struts had been replaced at a dealer by the
previous owner about 35,000 miles ago. It would bottom out with a very loud
thunk on even minor dips in the road.

Replacing the struts today, I discovered that whoever had replaced the struts
previously had completely left off the jounce bumpers – rubber blocks that
prevent the struts from bottoming out. The new struts with the boot kit that
included the jounce bumpers has solved the problem.

Hello. I have a 1994 Dodge Caravan 3.0 auto with the 3 speed
transmission. Long story short we got one at a junkyard we are hoping
works and got the old one out just fine but when we went to lift the
new one into place it didnt seem to want to get into the proper
position. We are using an engine hoist and lifting it from above with
a strap. Once we get close to position it seems there`s always
something hitting or out of line. It`s the exact same transmission so
I was getting aggrevated and stopped for the weekend. What could have
happened? Maybe the engine shifted into an odd position while taking
the old one out? I`m a day from just pushing this thing to the
junkyard! Anyone who has done this exact swap have any input I would
be very happy. Thank you.

(Car Lust) – the Plymouth Superbird was only made for 1970 and the
Dodge Daytona 500′s year was 1969. Each car was made for one model
year so that the car could compete in NASCAR races with the pointed
nose and rear wing/spoiler, both designed by NASA. These
aerodynamic additions and others to the car body gave it quite an
advantage over lesser rounded cars of this vintage. The rear wing
was very sturdy–there are even photos of a man sitting on top of
it just to prove its rigidity.

But what makes this particular car so special is not its condition
or rarity. Nope, it’s special because it is one of only two Dodge
Daytona 500s left on the planet that are still in the possession of
their original owners…

Continued: http://xrl.us/DD500

2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT, 4.0 with trailer package.

For the first 20,000 miles, I had absolutely no problems with
starting.   At about 22,000, I was sitting in the van waiting for my
wife to come out of a doctor’s appointment.  I had one LED reading
lamp and the REN radio on Sirius. After about 2 hours I went in to
check on her. When I came back out, I tried to start the car, and only
got a grunt.

It sounds like the starter begins to engage, then stops after 1/4
second or so.  Guy from the tow truck got it started with a jump, so I
thought it was the battery. It had been about 2 years, and in the
Southern Nevada climate, the heat eats batteries alive.
I stopped in at AutoZone and got one of their "Gold" level batteries
and installed it. I cleaned the posts, terminals, and used some of the
dielectric grease.

About a week later, same problem, but this time it did eventually
start. Same symptom, starter engaged for 1/4 sec then stopped.
I turned the key back and forth from off to start about 5 times,got
just as many 1/4 second grunts,  when it started fine, like new.
I generally just have to quickly flip the key to start, when it
engages and starts.

I had the dealer check when I had an oil change done, he advised
it was the battery terminal that was not making good connection with
the battery cable. He spliced in a new battery post connector.

Skip ahead a few weeks, same problem again. Cranks for 1/4 second or
so, then stops.

Ideas? It will be going back to the dealer in about a week for next
oil and service.

I remember on an older car I had, the starter solenoid contact
actually rotated within the unit. This was done so the same point of
physical contact was changed every time the solenoid was engaged. If
you got a burnt spot on the contact, every time you landed on that
same place you would have problems starting until you bumped it off
the bad spot.

Does the GC use the same sort of system?

Thanks in advance.

Hello,
I am having trouble with my brake lights.  My lower two went out, but my
high center one is fine.  I replaced the fuse and the bulbs.  Still no luck.
Any suggestions?  Could it be the switch?  But wouldn’t the center one be on
the same switch?

thanks,
SA

Hello. Yesterday I swapped out a transmission in a 1994 Dodge Caravan
3.0 automatic with the 3-speed transmission. It needs some adjustment
and things tightened but the transmission seems to be working ok.
However when I returned from my test drive and had it parked and
idling to check the transmission fluid level I noticed a fair sized
oil leak happening but couldnt tell exactly where the oil could be
coming from. Since it was getting dark I have decided to wait untill
tomorrow to mess with it again. Any rough ideas where a leak could
have developed while doing the transmission swap? I`ll be honest and
admit I was a bit careless with my jacks and things while doing it so
stuff was getting lifted and pushed at everywhere. (Did it on a
parking lot with no sort of lift or hoist) Thanks for any early
input.

When idling in gear at stop light, the idiot oil pressure lamp flashes on
with the accompanying audio beeps.  When i put in neutral, it resolves.  Oil
level is fine.

I put oil thickener in (Motor Honey) which solved the problem.

Ideas?

thx
bob

  Hello. We have a 1994 Dodge Caravan. Long story short the passenger
side calpiper froze up like 8 months ago and we just tied it up out of
the way and drove it more carefully. Anyway, finally got a new
caliper, rotor, pads but found the lower section of hose had gotten a
kink in it from being bent out of the way. OK got a new hose but once
it was hooked up neither side would work and the peddle went to the
floor. Tried bleeding the system and there was very little fluid or
air coming out of the passenger side but a lot on the drivers side.
Only when we put the old kinked/blocked hose back on the passenger
side would the drivers side brake work again. There`s no fluid leaking
anywhere. Just from this does anyone have an idea what may have gone
wrong? The passengers side lower hose being blocked or not affects how
the drivers side works but nothing gets the passenger side working.
Thanks for any quick input.