news:85a0cf004f59f548a3aa8a69c28ebbfa@localhost.talkaboutautos.com…

>I have purchased one from them Fit just like the original. IT IS a B to
> change !!!  Pay attention to how the heat shield bolts on..  It was a very
> common problem Also watch out for oil leaks from the head gasket

Thanks for the input. Is this doable with the car on ramps? Did you break
any bolts?
What mikes it a B to change? Just curious, since I think I will look into it
once I verify whether mine is indeed cracked. That diagnosis cost me $90.00
at the local delaership.

I keep thinking mother Mopar charges $800 for this job (parts & labor)
because it is a preverbial minefield where all sorts of things can go wrong.
Then again it was the aftermarket that redesigned the surpentine belt
tensioner for my 99 Caravan with one that seems to be a robust design
(bought at O’Reileys). Maybe 1999 OEM Stratus exhaust manifolds, and 1999
OEM Caravan belt tensioners are both in a similar catagory…..

Regards,
Jim

>>  What would that manifold cost me (ball park) to purchase outright? Just
>> curious. I might take that on to save money, and then wind up with
>> multiple busted bolts, and a heck of a mess! sigh.

>> Regards,
>> Jim

> You can get an exhaust manifold here:
> http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifolds/Dodge/Stratus

Hmmm, it appears that the aftermarket has jumped on this, and redesigned the
manifold so it don’t crack, and sells one for about $50.00. I wonder if this
is real, or should I pay $336 from the dealer (that is what he said), so
that I will get another manifold that will crack?  Glenn, this repair must
be touchy, and bolt breakage likely. For that reason alone, maybe $800 is
the right price. Still, it’s pretty hard to swallow this, and just fork over
8 big ones….

Jim

news:T7Nig.48843$Lm5.23961@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com…

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

>> Ok my opinion…you took your vehicle to the dealer complaining of a
>> noise
>> that you thought was a water pump, they say it is an exhaust leak (maybe
>> maybe not) The diagnosis is not what you thought but an exhaust leak. You
>> still have to pay the minimum check out  fee regardless, that’s how we
>> get
>> paid. Doctors get paid the same way but they call it an office visit.
>> If you aren’t satisfied with what they tell you then ask the technician
>> show you where the leak is. Not all exhaust leaks will cause a smell and
>> they wont get any better but may get worse.
>> If you have an old garden hose that can be cut up, take a piece about 2
>> foot
>> long and locate the noise with is as a stethoscope. you will find the
>> noise.

>> My opinion

>> Glenn Beasley
>> Chrysler Tech

> Glenn,

>   Thanks for the response. If it had been the water pump, I would have had
> it paid for with my warranty. Even without the warranty, that job would
> not be an arm and a leg. Heck, I bet Chrysler would have only charged
> about $250 for a $25 part + labor, flush, disposal, anti-freeze, etc. That
> is still something I could have afforded. Now $800 for an exhaust manifold
> is something I had to ponder, especially since the guy at the dealer said
> it was still safe, and won’t likely get worse. Maybe he is wrong, and it
> is UNSAFE, especially when sitting at a long red light, when the exhaust
> might concentrate under the hood, and find it’s way in the passenger
> compartment. That worries me. That said it does not smell (under the
> hood), and the noise is more of a rapid rattle that is somewhat random.
> Most exhaust leaks I’ve heard are more of a piss-piss-piss-piss in sync
> with the exhaust stroke of a cylinder. This is another reason I’m not
> jumping with 8 big hundred dollar bills  in my hand. Heck, maybe the boss
> told the technicians this week to move some exhaust manifolds that have
> been in stock too long, and I looked like a good candidate to get my good
> manifold replaced.

>  The guy said the leak was at the point where 4 pipes merge into one, and
> head to the catalytic converter. The O2 sensor is in that area too.
> Someone else was kind enough to inform me that if the leak is near the o2
> sensor, then that sensor might start reporting back in error, and cause
> the computer to richen the air / fuel mixture. Maybe he is on to
> something, since the gas mileage has worsened  recently. Then again, my
> wife with a lead foot has been driving it lately too, so who knows. Those
> 2.4′s with a lead foot driver use gas like a 5.9 in a big truck.

>  What would that manifold cost me (ball park) to purchase outright? Just
> curious. I might take that on to save money, and then wind up with
> multiple busted bolts, and a heck of a mess! sigh.

> Regards,
> Jim

 You can get an exhaust manifold here:
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifolds/Dodge/Stratus

news:T7Nig.48844$Lm5.25587@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com…

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> > Ok my opinion…you took your vehicle to the dealer complaining of a
noise
> > that you thought was a water pump, they say it is an exhaust leak (maybe
> > maybe not) The diagnosis is not what you thought but an exhaust leak.
You
> > still have to pay the minimum check out  fee regardless, that’s how we
get
> > paid. Doctors get paid the same way but they call it an office visit.
> > If you aren’t satisfied with what they tell you then ask the technician
> > show you where the leak is. Not all exhaust leaks will cause a smell and
> > they wont get any better but may get worse.
> > If you have an old garden hose that can be cut up, take a piece about 2
> > foot
> > long and locate the noise with is as a stethoscope. you will find the
> > noise.

> > My opinion

> > Glenn Beasley
> > Chrysler Tech

> Glenn,

>    Thanks for the response. If it had been the water pump, I would have
had
> it paid for with my warranty. Even without the warranty, that job would
not
> be an arm and a leg. Heck, I bet Chrysler would have only charged about
$250
> for a $25 part + labor, flush, disposal, anti-freeze, etc. That is still
> something I could have afforded. Now $800 for an exhaust manifold is
> something I had to ponder, especially since the guy at the dealer said it
> was still safe, and won’t likely get worse. Maybe he is wrong, and it is
> UNSAFE, especially when sitting at a long red light, when the exhaust
might
> concentrate under the hood, and find it’s way in the passenger
compartment.
> That worries me. That said it does not smell (under the hood), and the
noise
> is more of a rapid rattle that is somewhat random. Most exhaust leaks I’ve
> heard are more of a piss-piss-piss-piss in sync with the exhaust stroke of
a
> cylinder. This is another reason I’m not jumping with 8 big hundred dollar
> bills  in my hand. Heck, maybe the boss told the technicians this week to
> move some exhaust manifolds that have been in stock too long, and I looked
> like a good candidate to get my good manifold replaced.

>   The guy said the leak was at the point where 4 pipes merge into one, and
> head to the catalytic converter. The O2 sensor is in that area too.
Someone
> else was kind enough to inform me that if the leak is near the o2 sensor,
> then that sensor might start reporting back in error, and cause the
computer
> to richen the air / fuel mixture. Maybe he is on to something, since the
gas
> mileage has worsened  recently. Then again, my wife with a lead foot has
> been driving it lately too, so who knows. Those 2.4′s with a lead foot
> driver use gas like a 5.9 in a big truck.

>   What would that manifold cost me (ball park) to purchase outright? Just
> curious. I might take that on to save money, and then wind up with
multiple
> busted bolts, and a heck of a mess! sigh.

> Regards,
> Jim

I dont think they are trying to unload parts on you. As I said if your in
doubt, locate the noise yourself or have them show you.
Also the federal emission systelm on todays cars are 8/80. I dont know how
many miles are on your car and without having the book here I dont know if
an exhaust manifold falls into that catagory.  If you are below 80K you may
want to look into it.
As far as the 02 goes, yes if it were sucking in air at or around the 02
sensor it would cause a problem with gas mileage and you would get a check
engine lite on

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> Ok my opinion…you took your vehicle to the dealer complaining of a noise
> that you thought was a water pump, they say it is an exhaust leak (maybe
> maybe not) The diagnosis is not what you thought but an exhaust leak. You
> still have to pay the minimum check out  fee regardless, that’s how we get
> paid. Doctors get paid the same way but they call it an office visit.
> If you aren’t satisfied with what they tell you then ask the technician
> show you where the leak is. Not all exhaust leaks will cause a smell and
> they wont get any better but may get worse.
> If you have an old garden hose that can be cut up, take a piece about 2
> foot
> long and locate the noise with is as a stethoscope. you will find the
> noise.

> My opinion

> Glenn Beasley
> Chrysler Tech

Glenn,

   Thanks for the response. If it had been the water pump, I would have had
it paid for with my warranty. Even without the warranty, that job would not
be an arm and a leg. Heck, I bet Chrysler would have only charged about $250
for a $25 part + labor, flush, disposal, anti-freeze, etc. That is still
something I could have afforded. Now $800 for an exhaust manifold is
something I had to ponder, especially since the guy at the dealer said it
was still safe, and won’t likely get worse. Maybe he is wrong, and it is
UNSAFE, especially when sitting at a long red light, when the exhaust might
concentrate under the hood, and find it’s way in the passenger compartment.
That worries me. That said it does not smell (under the hood), and the noise
is more of a rapid rattle that is somewhat random. Most exhaust leaks I’ve
heard are more of a piss-piss-piss-piss in sync with the exhaust stroke of a
cylinder. This is another reason I’m not jumping with 8 big hundred dollar
bills  in my hand. Heck, maybe the boss told the technicians this week to
move some exhaust manifolds that have been in stock too long, and I looked
like a good candidate to get my good manifold replaced.

  The guy said the leak was at the point where 4 pipes merge into one, and
head to the catalytic converter. The O2 sensor is in that area too. Someone
else was kind enough to inform me that if the leak is near the o2 sensor,
then that sensor might start reporting back in error, and cause the computer
to richen the air / fuel mixture. Maybe he is on to something, since the gas
mileage has worsened  recently. Then again, my wife with a lead foot has
been driving it lately too, so who knows. Those 2.4′s with a lead foot
driver use gas like a 5.9 in a big truck.

  What would that manifold cost me (ball park) to purchase outright? Just
curious. I might take that on to save money, and then wind up with multiple
busted bolts, and a heck of a mess! sigh.

Regards,
Jim

"JC" <jcand…@prodigy.net> wrote in message

news:mqAig.42663$4L1.37169@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com…

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> Hi all,

> I have a 99 Stratus with the 2.4 liter 4 cylinder motor. I’m hearing a
noise
> that is somewhat like what I had with my 99 Caravan 3.3 when the water
pump
> bearing was roaring away.

> The Stratus was brought to the dealer because of recall notices, and while
> there I asked them to investigate that noise. I have a week to go on a 3rd
> party extended warranty, so I figured that whatever was wrong would be
taken
> care of with a minimum out of pocket cost.

> I got a call from the dealer with the bad news. They say that my exhaust
> manifold is cracked, and the gasket is blown, and the cost is $800 for the
> repair (parts and labor). My extended warranty does not cover exhaust
system
> problems.  I then said that there is no exhaust smell, or smoke, and he
> agreed. I asked him if this was dangerous, and he said no. I asked him if
> this will get worse, and he said no. So I told him to skip the repair, and
> he said that I owe them $90 for labor.

> I haven’t picked the car up yet, but the situation does not make since to
> me. My experience with underhood exhaust leaks is that they always get
> worse, and you can smell them under the hood.

> Comments?

> Jim

Ok my opinion…you took your vehicle to the dealer complaining of a noise
that you thought was a water pump, they say it is an exhaust leak (maybe
maybe not) The diagnosis is not what you thought but an exhaust leak. You
still have to pay the minimum check out  fee regardless, that’s how we get
paid. Doctors get paid the same way but they call it an office visit.
If you aren’t satisfied with what they tell you then ask the technician to
show you where the leak is. Not all exhaust leaks will cause a smell and
they wont get any better but may get worse.
If you have an old garden hose that can be cut up, take a piece about 2 foot
long and locate the noise with is as a stethoscope. you will find the noise.

My opinion

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

"Ironside" <PennWood…@BTInternet.com> wrote in message

news:1150142860.741423.18730@f6g2000cwb.googlegroups.com…

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> How do you remove the relay off its fastening?  We want to check the
> cooling fan relay to see if it is working but cannot remove it from
> some reason.
> Ironside wrote:
> > Okay, thanks.  The car is a 1992 Plymouth Voyager SE 3.3 litre petrol
> > engine. I believe it is 6 cylinder.  Can’t think of anything else you
> > need to know.
> > maxpower wrote:
> > > —
> > > Glenn Beasley
> > > Chrysler Tech
> > > "Ironside" <PennWood…@BTInternet.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1150022064.508318.297890@f6g2000cwb.googlegroups.com…
> > > > My cooling fan doesn’t seem to work.  First of all I thought it
might
> > > > be the thermostat that was not working but I have been informed that
it
> > > > is probably the relay that is at fault, it may be a wiring problem.
> > > > Where is the relay located, any ideas?
> > > > maxpower wrote:
> > > > > —

> > > > > "Ironside" <PennWood…@BTInternet.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:1149955723.802808.175840@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups.com…
> > > > > > Does anybody know where the cooling fan thermostat is located on
the
> > > > > > 1992 Plymouth Voyager?

> > > > > good luck with this question.

> > > > > Glenn Beasley
> > > > > Chrysler Tech

> > > Ok im going to take this as a 6 cyl engine. You should specify as much
info
> > > as possible if you are looking for answers to a certain question. The
relays
> > > should be located on the left fender, if not look under the PDC (black
box
> > > next to the battery if there is one. If there is a PDC raise the cover
and
> > > it will tell you what relay is what.
> > > The most common problem with that vehicle  was the fans would start to
wear
> > > out and the fusible link just to the right side of the washer bottle
would
> > > burn…..check those.
> > > —
> > > Glenn Beasley
> > > Chrysler Tech

You want to check the fan relay but don’t know how to remove it from the
fender? Just curious, how are you going to test this if you cant get it off?
Did you put a test lite on the fan to see if it turns on when the temp is
above normal? have you checked the fusible links?
Maybe you should have someone that is familiar with this vehicle tell you
what is wrong.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

maxpower wrote:
> —

> "Ironside" <PennWood…@BTInternet.com> wrote in message
> news:1150142860.741423.18730@f6g2000cwb.googlegroups.com…
> > How do you remove the relay off its fastening?  We want to check the
> > cooling fan relay to see if it is working but cannot remove it from
> > some reason.
> > Ironside wrote:
> > > Okay, thanks.  The car is a 1992 Plymouth Voyager SE 3.3 litre petrol
> > > engine. I believe it is 6 cylinder.  Can’t think of anything else you
> > > need to know.
> > > maxpower wrote:
> > > > —
> > > > Glenn Beasley
> > > > Chrysler Tech
> > > > "Ironside" <PennWood…@BTInternet.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:1150022064.508318.297890@f6g2000cwb.googlegroups.com…
> > > > > My cooling fan doesn’t seem to work.  First of all I thought it
> might
> > > > > be the thermostat that was not working but I have been informed that
> it
> > > > > is probably the relay that is at fault, it may be a wiring problem.
> > > > > Where is the relay located, any ideas?
> > > > > maxpower wrote:
> > > > > > —

> > > > > > "Ironside" <PennWood…@BTInternet.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:1149955723.802808.175840@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups.com…
> > > > > > > Does anybody know where the cooling fan thermostat is located on
> the
> > > > > > > 1992 Plymouth Voyager?

> > > > > > good luck with this question.

> > > > > > Glenn Beasley
> > > > > > Chrysler Tech

> > > > Ok im going to take this as a 6 cyl engine. You should specify as much
> info
> > > > as possible if you are looking for answers to a certain question. The
> relays
> > > > should be located on the left fender, if not look under the PDC (black
> box
> > > > next to the battery if there is one. If there is a PDC raise the cover
> and
> > > > it will tell you what relay is what.
> > > > The most common problem with that vehicle  was the fans would start to
> wear
> > > > out and the fusible link just to the right side of the washer bottle
> would
> > > > burn…..check those.
> > > > —
> > > > Glenn Beasley
> > > > Chrysler Tech

> You want to check the fan relay but don’t know how to remove it from the
> fender? Just curious, how are you going to test this if you cant get it off?
> Did you put a test lite on the fan to see if it turns on when the temp is
> above normal? have you checked the fusible links?
> Maybe you should have someone that is familiar with this vehicle tell you
> what is wrong.

> Glenn Beasley
> Chrysler Tech

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

Ironside wrote:
> Okay, thanks.  The car is a 1992 Plymouth Voyager SE 3.3 litre petrol
> engine. I believe it is 6 cylinder.  Can’t think of anything else you
> need to know.
> maxpower wrote:
> > —
> > Glenn Beasley
> > Chrysler Tech
> > "Ironside" <PennWood…@BTInternet.com> wrote in message
> > news:1150022064.508318.297890@f6g2000cwb.googlegroups.com…
> > > My cooling fan doesn’t seem to work.  First of all I thought it might
> > > be the thermostat that was not working but I have been informed that it
> > > is probably the relay that is at fault, it may be a wiring problem.
> > > Where is the relay located, any ideas?
> > > maxpower wrote:
> > > > —

> > > > "Ironside" <PennWood…@BTInternet.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:1149955723.802808.175840@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups.com…
> > > > > Does anybody know where the cooling fan thermostat is located on the
> > > > > 1992 Plymouth Voyager?

> > > > good luck with this question.

> > > > Glenn Beasley
> > > > Chrysler Tech

> > Ok im going to take this as a 6 cyl engine. You should specify as much info
> > as possible if you are looking for answers to a certain question. The relays
> > should be located on the left fender, if not look under the PDC (black box
> > next to the battery if there is one. If there is a PDC raise the cover and
> > it will tell you what relay is what.
> > The most common problem with that vehicle  was the fans would start to wear
> > out and the fusible link just to the right side of the washer bottle would
> > burn…..check those.
> > —
> > Glenn Beasley
> > Chrysler Tech